Roasted delicata squash with Meyer lemon vinaigrette

Monday, November 3, 2014

If I’m famous for anything in the kitchen, it’s my track record for that most heroic of tasks: Thanksgiving dinner. It’s a beast, but someone’s gotta do it. Best assign it to the person who once claimed ownership of a pre-Pinterest era Thanksgiving binder that housed every T-day recipe from Gourmet to Saveur, classified, naturally, in order of appearance, from cocktails to desserts.

That person would be me.

Last year I cooked two dinners – Canadian Thanksgiving in October, and American Thanksgiving in November. Twice I wrote out long lists ingredients to source; twice I stood on my feet for two days solid, peeling, mashing, squeezing, rubbing, brining and basting until I gave myself a simultaneous episode of tennis elbow and carpal tunnel. Twice I had that foreboding sense that I might not make it to the finish line. Twice I managed to pull it off, poured myself an immense glass of red, and melted, silently, into my leather-backed chair between cheerful dining companions.

This year, we travel. It’s the least we can do – to share our part of the responsibility of getting one’s family, preferably intact, to a home that’s not our own. To brave the two busiest travel days of the year, crossing fingers for no delays, no lost baggage, and most important – no issues with the in-flight wine supply.

But that’s how it goes. You can’t always be the ones to stay at home. To sit back and put your feet up on the sofa, enveloped in the comfort of candlelight and your Frank Sinatra Pandora station, while others brave trains, planes and automobiles to land in this exact place.

But a travel year doesn’t mean that you have to put your excitement about Thanksgiving dishes on hold. There should be a law – let’s call it Jessica’s Law because nobody will pronounce my last name correctly, which could be summarized by the following equation:

TH Factor = (TMT-DTD)/3.14TMT²

In layman’s terms, your TH factor (that’s your Thanksgiving Hunger factor) = (Thanksgiving Miles Traveled – Days until Thanksgiving Dinner), divided by (Pie x Thanksgiving Miles Traveled) squared.

It just made sense to have pie in the equation – make it pecan, pumpkin, it doesn’t really matter.

The gist is that the closer you get to Thanksgiving, and the farther you have to travel, the hungrier you are for these kinds of foods at home.

Lately, my TH Factor has been stratospheric. And it doesn’t help that I’ve found a favorite new squash.

OK, maybe I haven’t found a favorite new squash. Everyone, their brothers, their uncles, and their kids’ elementary school teachers have discovered it this year. That would be delicata. Do you hear the angels sing when I mention the name?

Not only does the name “delicata” conjure loveliness on its own, but it also follows up its name with a silky, almost custard-like texture that will have you questioning whether you’re eating dinner or dessert. And I’m saving the best part for last….you don’t have to peel the skin.

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CSA

Bialas Farms CSA: Week 18

Monday, October 27, 2014

Here we are. The last CSA post of the season. I don’t know whether to click my heels in the air or shed a tear. I’m torn….

These posts are a beast to put together – many of them tally 3,000 words in length, which to give you some perspective, is like writing an AP English final every week (albeit without the stress and pre-reading).

But it’s fun. I love taking you on a journey through food: how we tackle mealtime based on our CSA deliveries, and how we use leftovers from one meal to create the next. It keeps me honest – never again will I question exactly what went into that strawberries and cream cake that I served on Emma’s birthday, or wonder how I made those waffled grilled cheeses.

I keep thinking about next week’s post, and the post after that – will I feel empty writing about just….one dish?

Perhaps. And perhaps not. Maybe having some free time will motivate me to clean out the kids’ long stockpiled art collection. Shop for some desperately-needed non-2007-era clothes. Massage? Manicure! This is actually starting to sound good….

Today I’ll leave you with the set of recipes that I made from my final Bialas Farms box: Week 18. Here’s what we received in our box this week:

Baby Bakers (potatoes)
Leeks
Green Cabbage
Delicata Squash
Shallots
Lettuce
Sweet Carrots
Bunched Beets
Sugar Pumpkin
Celery
Bok Choy

It’s a big set of recipes. Something about this being my last box made me nostalgic about my deliveries before the week was over. If last week I struggled to put interesting meals on the table, this week I was chock full of ideas. It also helped that I received my monthly box from Hatchery, whose products always seem to get the juices flowing.

I’ll admit that the first meal that I made doesn’t fall squarely into the “interesting” category. A split roast chicken, carrots and parsnips cooked in honey, butter and herbs (along with some of the chicken juices).

Not creative and unique, but certainly delicious…And made for a beautiful Saturday night dinner at the lake, paired with a butternut squash casserole and a fresh green salad with a previous week’s stash of leftover romaine.

I found the squash casserole on Food & Wine magazine’s site and followed it to the letter. Not only was I able to use my CSA butternut squash, but I also used some of the leeks from last week’s box, as well as thyme from my kitchen garden. If you’re planning Thanksgiving sides, I highly recommend this bad boy.

With a little leftover chicken, and some homemade stock from the bones, I made a Sunday night (gluten free) chicken noodle soup. I had a few old zucchinis from a few weeks ago, which looked like they were nearly ready for the garbage bin—but I was able to salvage this sorry lot by peeling off some of the softening green skin, and spiralizing them into noodles.

My kids are so-so with spiralized zucchini noodles on their own, but I learned this week that if you add them to soup, their whole attitude changes. Sam even declared this chicken and vegetable noodle soup his new favorite. In fact, he made me promise me that I would still make him this “when he’s an adult”. Deal.

To make the chicken soup with zucchini noodles

First make the chicken stock by taking the remaining bones from the half chicken and placing them along in a slow cooker with a few types of chopped vegetables (I used leek greens, carrots, and celery) along with some thyme and black peppercorns. Cover with water and cook on low overnight, and then strain the next day. Save any remaining chicken for your soup, and if you have none left, simply cook a breast the next day and chop/shred it for the soup. Store the stock in the fridge until you’re ready to use it for the soup.

When you’re ready to make the soup, simply prep a bunch of vegetables- I used chopped celery, carrots, red peppers, and zucchini noodles (1 zucchini, peeled, and passed through a spiralizer). Since the carrots, celery and red peppers are quite hard, you can either cook them in the chicken stock in the slow cooker for a few hours when you’re out that day, or if you’re using them at the last minute, put them in a microwave-safe container with a splash of water, and nuke, partially covered, for about 2 minutes. Drain the water. In a Dutch oven, combine your vegetables (including the zucchini noodles) and your stock and bring to a simmer. Add salt to taste, and some chopped fresh parsley. In a separate bowl, whisk an egg, and then slowly add a ladleful of hot stock to the bowl, whisking constantly. Take the pot of soup off the heat, and then add the stock/egg mixture to the pot, stirring constantly. On low heat, warm the soup gently for a minute or two, making sure that the soup doesn’t boil and scramble the eggs. Serve with a grinding of fresh black pepper.

Note: If you have leftovers, this soup may separate in the fridge. If that happens, just give the jar a good shake before heating it back up.

If you were to guess what my favorite vegetable has been, you would likely guess incorrectly. The vegetable that I loved most of all, strangely enough, was this: German white garlic.

There is a huge difference between the garlic that I find at the grocery store, and the plump, sturdy cloves that I received most weeks as part of my CSA. The German white garlic heads come with only 4-5 cloves – not multitudes of tiny cloves that make you peel and curse, peel and curse. I hate that garlic. It does the job, but oy.

So not only did I receive garlic most weeks with my CSA, but I also bought extra to stow away for rainy days and stewing adventures.

This is not stew:

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Savory

Kid-approved recipes from The 52 New Foods Challenge Book

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

One of the interesting takeaways from our weekly efforts to try new foods is the fact that my kids prefer to eat foods in as close to their natural state as possible.

Carrots? Raw…

Squash like zucchini, yellow squash and pattypan? You guessed it.

Potatoes? Now that might be stretching it.

We’ve been able to try a host of new foods together simply by peeling and eating. Which on the one hand is great – introducing new foods into my kids’ diets has never been easier. But on the other hand, my adult palette is craving more mature foods…foods that actually have sauces, and garnishes.

I know that we’ll get there. One day we’ll sit down as a family and heap our plates full of lasagna or pearl barley risotto. I’ll be able to sauce, dip, smother and otherwise complicate food to my heart’s content.

Until then, we’ll move ahead in baby steps, which means connecting with my kids at their level: recognizing that meals with a more complex set of flavors can be intimidating, and developing recipes that are both easy for me and appealing to them. It’s hard to take rejection in the kitchen, so keeping things simple is always the goal. If they don’t like it, so be it, at least I haven’t spent a huge amount of time on the dish.

As part of my work in the food world over the past year and a half, I’ve had the pleasure of meeting others who are on a similar mission to eliminate (or at least reduce) kids’ pickiness at mealtimes.

And what a time to be picky! Our farmer’s markets have grown in size and stature, CSA delivery boxes have become the norm, and businesses offering home-delivery of artisanal food products are sprouting faster than asparagus in April.

This is a time to embrace food, to get back to our roots, and to teach our kids about the availability of beautiful, healthy foods that can both nourish and satisfy hungry bellies.

Today I’m introducing you to someone who I consider to be an ally in my effort to educate kids about healthy food.

Jennifer Tyler Lee is also a Mom and Entrepreneur who has written a book called The 52 New Foods Challenge.

After struggling with her own kids’ picky eating, she came to a similar conclusion: that by making things fun, and encouraging kids to eat a new food each week, she could encourage her kids to accept a healthier range of meal options.

While my blog focuses more on a weekly exploration of a single food independently, Jennifer offers a roadmap for exploring 52 new foods over the course of a year, and has some healthy recipe suggestions to help you along.

I loved reading through her book. Although I’m a voracious home cook, I admit that I still sometimes struggle with mealtime ideas for the kids. Grain salad with spicy Hatch chiles and radishes? Not a favorite of theirs. And they were not pleased to find me inserting lobster and tarragon into their mac ‘n cheese.

I thought that I’d take a cue from Jennifer and create some recipes at home inspired by the 52 New Foods Challenge book, yet still within the confines of my own food philosophy which is summed up by this: all food – even kid food – should appeal to the whole family, even if it means bringing the kids along for the ride.

In other words, I should want to dig into the meal just as much as they do.

Back to my earlier comment about sauces, given my kids’ reluctance to try them, I figured that I’d make a dish out of flavors that they recognize (e.g. carrots, pears, ketchup) along with a set of flavors that are completely new to them (e.g. ginger, soy sauce).

One of the foods on the list of 52 New Foods in Jennifer’s book is Asian pears. We tried Asian pears last year as part of our weekly mystery food challenge and the results were iffy. But with a little persistence, we’ve tried them a few more times (remember, repeating foods with kids is key) and they’ve become a family favorite. In fact we were recently at the Farmer’s market and picked up a basket of Asian pears. To my shock (and glee), my kids ate through the whole lot within the first few days. Scrambling over to Whole Foods to pick up an extra ingredient for the recipe shared in this post has never been so satisfying!

Pears are great for eating out of hand, for baking, and they cook down beautifully to lend a subtle sweetness to sauces for any kind of meat or vegetable dish.

Pears are often a key component in Asian cooking, so I thought that I’d create an Asian-style sauce with pears and use it to glaze tender baby back ribs.

I cook the ribs in the slow cooker – they require no browning at all, just a light seasoning, and then they cook until meltingly tender for 8-10 hours. It’s easy to start them the morning that you plan to serve them, but you can always cook them overnight. The sauce is made by blending pears with a few other vegetables and condiments (let the kids push the button, it always helps!) and then is used to baste the ribs in the oven before serving. If you have a little toaster-style oven on the counter, you can use this here too for the final glaze, depending on how many ribs you’re cooking.

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CSA

Bialas Farms CSA: Week 17

Monday, October 20, 2014

It’s getting down to the wire….this is the second-to-last CSA wrap-up post and as I promised earlier, there are NO raw tomatoes, only some beautiful Fall dishes that required a hot stove and a hotter oven.

Here are the goods that I received this week from our friends at Bialas Farms:

Butternut Squash
Broccoli
Garlic
Baby Bell Peppers
Sweet Corn
Green Beans
Zucchini
Popcorn
White Lady Turnips
Tomatoes
Lettuce

The first thing I did when I got back from the market is send the baby heirlooms into the oven for a nice long blast of scorching hot air. Which blistered them and added some extra sweetness….

One of my Mom’s favorite pasta dishes uses a raw tomato, brie, basil and garlic sauce – you simply marinate the ingredients for half an hour before tossing the whole thing with just-cooked noodles.

In my effort to give this dish a Fall twist, I used the roasted tomatoes as the foundation, whose heat softened the garlic’s usual bite. Both pasta dishes are great, but this one seems more appropriate for crisper temps…

Normally I don’t use spaghetti in the dish – penne and other tubular pasta shapes work well to catch the sauce, but beggars can’t be choosers. My pantry at the lake is looking pretty thin as we continue to work our way through much of our Summer stash.

And what could be more enjoyable than cooking dinner with a glass of wine, and a friendly helper. Who isn’t really helping at all but keeping you company with endless chatter about school friends and planned Lego constructions…She’s also good at sneaking bites of those crisp and flavorful Bialas Farms green beans that have been blanched for only a minute or two to retain both flavor and crunch.

To make the roasted tomato and brie pasta:

Halve a quart or more of baby heirloom or cherry tomatoes and place, cut side down along with a few sprigs of thyme, on a parchment-lined baking sheet. Drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with s&p and roast at 350 degrees for 30 minutes or more, depending on the size of your tomatoes. The tomatoes should be slightly charred and soft, but not falling apart when you remove them from the oven.

Set aside to cool slightly while you prep the remaining ingredients. Take a wheel of Brie (approx. 8 oz) and trim any hard white parts (although much of the white edge can remain). Place in a large bowl and grate 1 large clove of garlic into the bowl. Toss the brie and garlic with a few big glugs of olive oil and season with a little salt and pepper. Scatter some cleaned and torn basil leaves (about a handful), and when the tomatoes have cooled slightly, toss in the tomatoes.

Next bring a large pot of salted water to boil and then cook your pasta until al dente – any shape will work, but tubular/shell shapes work best. Toss the pasta with the sauce, and serve with a grating of parmesan cheese.

If you’ve been reading this blog you’ll know that I’m a huge fan of chili. Vegetarian, vegan, full ‘o beef, you name it and I’ve made it. I had a great time testing out Tim Love’s authentic Texas chili last year, and while this version doesn’t have the same range of spices, it takes a quarter of the time to prepare. The ingredients are simple, the kind of vegetables and spices that you’ll likely have on hand, making it a 30-minute meal that will impress even the most ardent of chili fans.

Like the posole that I made last week, I reached for my seemingly endless stash of CSA peppers – poblano, jalapeno, and the slender and mild cubanelles. The chili gets a hit of flavor some bubbles too – in this case a hoppy IPA which I always keep stocked in my fridge. The best part of any soup or stew, in my most humble opinion, is the garnish. A squeeze of lime, sour cream, cilantro, and shredded Monterrey Jack (“Modern Jack” to my kids, in their mind, a perfect accompaniment to chips and “Mock ‘n Mole”.)

To make the beef, bean and 3-pepper chili:

In a medium sautee pan, brown 1 lb of ground beef in vegetable oil until the pink is no longer visible. Remove the beef and drain most of the fat, leaving about a tablespoon or two. While the beef is cooking, dice a medium onion (to make about a cup) and a few types of peppers – I used a mix of poblano, jalapeno and cubanelle – altogether they formed about 2 cups.

Once the beef has been removed from the pot, add the vegetables and sweat until translucent (approx. 10 minutes). Add 2 tablespoons of tomato paste and a mix of spices – I used a half Tablespoon each of cumin, coriander, oregano, and chili powder. Cook the spices for a minute before adding back the beef, along with 1 14-oz can of tomato sauce, and 1 28-can of whole peeled tomatoes. Add a half bottle of beer (anything will work as long as it’s not too dark), and bring the whole chili to a simmer.

Simmer the chili for approximately 15 minutes (or longer) to blend the flavors, and when done, crush the tomatoes lightly with a potato masher to make sure that you don’t end up with large tomato pieces. Add a can of drained and rinsed black beans, and cook for 5 minutes more to heat through. Serve with any garnish you like or have on hand – sour cream, crushed tortilla chips, cilantro, all work well.

Now the next dish may not appear at first blush to look like your standard CSA dish (where are the vegetables?) but if you peek under all of that oozy cream and cheese sauce, you’ll find a measly effort to work through my pile of cipollini onions. Typically I don’t include onions in my macaroni and cheese – I tend to use more of a straight-up roux + cheese sauce, but since I’m making an effort to use my weekly vegetables, in went the cipollini onions, finely-diced of course.

Another question you may ask is “why is there a lobster tail in this image?” The answer is not as straightforward. I made the macaroni and cheese for the kids last weekend, with Lauren yanking at my sleeve and begging (groveling?) for a homemade version, not that boxed stuff. Which, with full disclosure, I do stock in my pantry for emergencies only (e.g. a potential Sunday morning hangover causes me to trip over the previous evening’s clothes, knocking me unconscious and forcing Rodney into lunch duties). So I made mac ‘n cheese. And apparently the stinky Gruyere that I added at the last minute isn’t a kid favorite. As such, I was left with a giant crusty pan of the stuff. I hate, hate, hate to throw food away, so rather than pitch the extra, I dutifully whittled away at the dish each day, watching the remaining portion get smaller and smaller.

By day 3 I’d had enough mac ‘n cheese, heavenly Gruyere notwithstanding, so I had to kick up the flavor profile to make it palatable enough to finish off once and for all. I was at Whole Foods that morning and spotted some lobster tail and tossed it into my cart. If I can give you one piece of advice about leftovers, it would be to make it into a different meal: all of a sudden it’s new again. Lobster tail, tarragon, 3-day old macaroni and cheese, done, spiked, dish scrubbed, mission accomplished.

To make the macaroni and cheese with lobster and tarragon:

I used a recipe similar to the one written on Martha Stewart’s website—if you’re making with lobster and tarragon, make sure to mix in the lobster and tarragon before adding your breadcrumb topping and baking.

To poach the lobster tails, bring a medium pot of water to a boil, and add in your lobster tails, cooking, covered, for 8 minutes. When the lobster is done, remove, let cool, and then using a pair of poultry shears, cut open the tail to release the meat. Chop the meat and set aside, while you chop some tarragon sprigs (you’ll need about a tablespoon). Stir into your macaroni and cheese, top with breadcrumbs, and bake at 350 degrees, uncovered for 30 minutes or until the top is golden.

It wouldn’t be a Fall week without another attempt at some kind of apple dish. I still had a ton of Granny Smith apples left over from our trip to Heaven Hill Farm and was searching for a recipe.

I’ve been on a quest to learn more about Gluten Free cooking since I have a sneaking suspicion that wheat has been exacerbating Lauren’s eczema. In addition to her skin issues, she’s been complaining recently of stomach aches, particularly after eating what she refers to as “party foods” – pizza, cupcakes, etc. Gluten has become a popular villain, and while I don’t mean to jump on the bandwagon, I thought that it might make sense to dip my toe into the world of Gluten-Free baking. Our appointment with the allergist is in a few weeks, so until then, I’ll continue to adjust to the thought of de-glutenizing should that not-so-welcome event happen in the not-so-distant future.

One book that piqued my interest is called “Flourless” and is written by Nicole Spiridakis, author of the blog Cucina Nicolina.